Living Water is a multimedia piece comprising three parts: a film; a conversation between Dr. Wallace “J” Nichols (PhD, New York Times best-selling author of Blue Mind) and Dr. Cliff Kapono (Professional Surfer, Chemist, Journalist); a collection of photographs from Christa Funk, Adam Ravazzano, Elise Wilcox, Raja Iliya, and Karim Iliya; and a painting from Susanna Cromwell.

Our film, Living Water, features cinematography from Jon Spenser and surfing from Monyca Eleogram, Olamana Eleogram,

Makana Eleogram, Matt Meola, Albee Layer, Dusty Payne, Tanner Hendrickson, Noa Ginella, and Miles Serafica.

The calm, clear water beneath a breaking wave is one of our favorite places in the world, yet most people never see it. We wanted to show the serene, peaceful space that many photographers, filmmakers, and bodysurfers occu- py to those who only ever experience surfing from above the water or behind a screen.

As we worked through the film in May of 2020, we began to appreciate the relationship between calm and chaos. The two are not mutually exclusive; they are two sides of the same coin. We have found hope in this perspective, just as we find relief in these images.

We hope Living Water can provide momentary relief to those who need it, and that we will all meditate on why it is critical for our collective mental, emotional, spiritual, and physical health to understand the real value of water.

Living Water

BLUE MINDFULNESS IN THE TIME OF COVID-19

Back in August, while listening to Dr. Cliff Kapono (Professional Surfer, Chemist, Journalist) on The Waterpeople Podcast, it occurred to me that I had never heard a conversation between Cliff and Dr. Wallace “J” Nichols (PhD, New York Times best-selling author of Blue Mind). I was sure they had crossed paths (they had) and also that there must be a podcast somewhere with a conversation between these two men (there wasn’t).

A few weeks later, we all met over Zoom for a discussion that ranged from how science and mythology can work together to tell a more complete story, to losing homes to nature, to Blue Mind vs Red Mind vs Gray Mind, and finally, to why we need to reevaluate our relationship with water. The conversation, shown below, is part of a multimedia collaboration that my colleagues at Three Tree Creative and I call Living Water.

Living Water comprises three parts: a short film, a collection of meditative water photographs, and a conversation between two people who have tied their lives and livelihoods to the ocean.

Blue Mind, a term coined by J, is a mildly meditative state characterized by calm, peacefulness, unity, and a sense of general happiness and satisfaction with life in the moment. The quickest and easiest way to achieve this mental state is by spending time in or near wild bodies of water. As J’s book explains, photos and videos of water can stimulate the same area of your brain that fires when you engage with the ocean in person.

2020 has been the year of the “new normal” and the “now more than ever.” It has been rough for many people, but it’s been especially difficult for those who lost loved ones and those who, like J, lost their homes in the west coast fires.

We hope Living Water can provide momentary relief to those who need it, and that we will all meditate on why it is critical for our collective mental, emotional, spiritual, and physical health to understand the real value of water.

Full moon morning. Raja Iliya, 2019, Maui

CONVERSATION

MICHAEL How are you guys doing? How have you been managing the last couple of months?

J Very poorly. I just had to say it up front. It’s weird and heartbreaking and soul crushing and then at the same time, just really fascinating. I go from, I can’t breathe. I can’t move. I can’t think to Whoa! Look what happens when an Airstream trailer melts at over 1200 degrees. So that’s where I am. Thankfully, the ocean’s a block away. So I can get out there and get myself out of not just Red Mind, but Gray Mind, which is burnout. It’s been a very weird, strange month on top of the pandemic and weird president, and everything else. So how are you guys?

MICHAEL I’d say not quite where you are. What else is there to say after that? I don’t know.

J Well, It’s a month after the fires, which is really different from the next day. All of the clichés make sense. A month ago they all sounded like clichés. Now, they sound like brilliant wisdom.

CLIFF It’s crazy. Some of the Hawaiian teachings that we have (and wherever you sit on that realm is totally cool), but from a more pragmatic approach, the gods and the goddesses represent this ecological situation. They’re like manifestations of ecology. Not having a written culture, it’s a lot easier to make sense of these ecological dynamics over long periods of time if you add person and personality to these events. We have Pele, who is the fire goddess. She’s kind of abrupt, unpredictable, provides life, takes life. That type of person. The god Kane represents water. Kane also represents the sun. So, Kane represents both a source of energy and of water. Kane is also the moisture in the air as everything heats up, when the storms come and bring precipitation.

J, you’re such an interesting person to have dedicated your whole life to water, and then to have wildfire seemingly take so much from you. I know I would trip on that. Like, I study the microbes and then if I got some like gnarly staph infection and died.

J If you try to tell somebody a story about millions of people, or millions of species, they have a hard time following big numbers. But if you represent your story with an individual entity, with a name, a god, a character, a child, or the name of an animal, people will remember your story way better long term. They won’t get lost in the minutiae. Scientists need to learn that lesson because we like to share big numbers and big facts and then we lose people. And then we get frustrated that they’re not paying attention. From a psychological perspective, our brains handle stories about an individual’s experience a lot better.

A story about Pele is going to go a lot further in our collective memory and culture than stories about lots and lots of people. And, you know, the things that mesmerize us about water and fascinate us also scare us. Because water can be very dangerous. It’s life-giving, and it’s life-taking. This is also true for fire. When you’re sitting and watching a fire, hours go by and you don’t get bored. You just watch. And it’s fascinating. And it just keeps moving and changing and burning through whatever you put on the fire. And you feel connected to our ancestors who’ve sat and watched a lot of fires for thousands and thousands of years. We didn’t watch screens. We watched fires, and we watched the sky, and we watched the water.


Blue marble rolling. Christa Funk, 2019, Oahu

CLIFF In Tahiti, Pele is the goddess of water, and she’s the goddess of fire. Well, liquid fire. Even in stories across Polynesia from an older culture of essentially the same people, this connection to fire and water is so embedded, like you said. I’ve actually never thought about water and fire in that same way. Maybe the bridge between the two is lava.

J Yeah, it makes me think of how slow motion wave videos or slow motion water videos are so mesmerizing, but then you can look at the slow movement of lava and see the similarities that you’re describing.

MICHAEL You’re watching land being birthed.

CLIFF And taken.

MICHAEL For sure. Like that last season of lava flows on the Big Island.

CLIFF Nearly 3,000 people lost their homes here. The coral reef that I was studying down on the south side of the Big Island was right next to these insane waves. Probably the best south shore waves that we have, and the lava took all of it. Waves that people like Derek Ho used to come over every hurricane season to surf. Uncle Mike Ho and all those guys would fly over and it was such an insane wave, but now it’s gone. It’s crazy to think about the psychological damage that a lot of the surfers have here. We only have one spot on this side. But still, I mean, that’s a surf spot. It’s not like we lost our homes.

J The fire that took our home was started by lightning. And I remember that night, I was up watching the storm. It’s very rare to get big lightning storms in California. It was like 12,000 dry strikes on a very dry Earth and it started over 600 fires. Imagine the most amazing lightning storm you’ve ever seen without rain, and a very dry, dry forest. It was such a cool storm, but it lit the 600 fires and just overwhelmed our system. The men and women who fought the fires couldn’t fight them all. One of them near our home got out of control and took our home. But kind of to your point, if you’re going to lose a wave, you want to lose it to Mother Nature, not to some yahoo with a bulldozer, you know?

I told my daughters, “A beautiful storm took your home. It was the most beautiful storm I’ve ever seen in California. That’s what took your home. You can sleep at night, knowing that it wasn’t some criminal act of negligence.” So, still a loss, of course, losing a beloved wave that’s therapy for so many people, but you lost it to...

CLIFF Pele.

J Pele. It’s like, Okay, yeah, it’s yours.

Parting the sea. Elise Wilcox, 2019, Oahu

MICHAEL Both of you, in interviews and things that I’ve read, stress a connection with nature. As we go further down the road of convenience, I feel like we get away from nature. It is so powerful to hear you guys talking about those losses with a reverence to the power of nature, and that is a story that needs to be continually told.

J I think it’s good to hear that perspective from scientists, especially. As you go through your education, the system tries to squeeze that reverence part out of you. The system tells you, Don’t say those things. Don’t even say the word “love” from a podium into a microphone if you’re trying to be taken seriously. I continue to violate that rule. Purposefully. I think the part of the culture that wrecked the place is the part that tells you to check your emotions at the door, check your reverence and your spirituality and the idea that nature also offers us transcendence. It’s a bad idea to keep that stuff out of the conversation. And I say that as a scientist, and as a human, and as a dad. People really like hearing soul talk because they’re so deprived of it.

MICHAEL People want you to be able to make decisions based on numbers in a way that you can’t when you are forced to empathize. It feels like science almost prides itself on stripping emotion from the equation. Cliff, when you’re able to bring indigenous wisdom to the story, it’s amazing. Those worlds don’t have to be at odds, even though we have been told that they do.

CLIFF I think it’s just conventional science, like conventional agriculture, pharmaceuticals, or transportation. Those fields have been privatized and exploited over the last 200 years. People need to step back and realize that 200 years ago, there was a rapid desire to expand. That was the overall goal. Let’s get this developed. Let’s build as much as we can out there in the world, in our population. Let’s expand. And now the underlying issue is the population. There are too many of us. How can we expect conventional anything to work anymore? It makes no sense.

There’s a teacher in our community, Dr. Kale Eva, who talks about how in Hawaii, the appreciation for water was lost in the ‘60s, when people could just hook up to the tap. Prior to that, you had to go get your water somewhere. Even where I grew up, we had to go get water from the spigot, because we lived outside of the water lines. So we knew the value of water. We didn’t waste it. We sometimes had to all shower with the same water. We wouldn’t run the washer, or we’d use water from the washer to flush the toilet. Water had a huge value. Now I live in a place where I just turn it on and it’s there. It’s easy for me to think like it’s not as valuable as it is, which is again, an example of conventional thinking. We’ve got to step back. We’re really good at expansion. Now it’s about regeneration.

MICHAEL I think a lot about how the Great Depression might be where progress should have stopped in a lot of areas. After that, and the war, there was a huge population boom, and we kind of started worshiping convenience in so many aspects of life. The story that conservationists are telling right now seems to be a result of that convenience. How do we get people interested in going back to life before convenience?

J Using fear, guilt, anger, and factoids to try to convince people to change their lives doesn’t work, but that’s what we keep doing. The value equation, as Cliff was talking about, for water is broken. We undervalue it. The worst things you can imagine happen when we undervalue each other, or nature. That’s what’s happening with water. And so that’s where I work. I am working to fix the value equation.

The water cycle that we teach to every grade school kid is wrong. It leaves out the cognitive, creative, emotional, psychological, social, and spiritual wellness benefits of water. And if you leave that much out of the story, you are going to teach an undervalued appreciation of water. Straight out the gate we leave all of that value out.

What if you learned as a kid that water is a source of creativity? What if you learned that when you’re having a really crappy day, or you’re feeling angry and frustrated and scared, that you can go to the ocean, or lake or river, and it makes your day a little better? Maybe you’d learn that water could be your best friend. Water connects us and it calms us. It gives us a sense of peace and freedom and transcendence. What if you learned that as a kid? I’m actually optimistic, because that idea doesn’t seem too far-fetched. And the science is in. It says all those things are true.

Abstract Peahi. Adam Ravazzano, 2018, Maui

MICHAEL Cliff, are you still working on the surfer’s microbiome?

CLIFF It’s been kind of delayed on my part, mostly because I’m participating in peer review. J can attest to the discrepancies you can have among authors who each want to tell the story they want to tell. I think maybe the attention it got up front might have put me at a disadvantage, because I think people see it now as an opportunity to share their own work. The finding that I want to put out into the literature is that there are molecular fingerprints that nature puts on us. And the more we frequent the marine environment, the more these fingerprints exist on our skin. I think we’re all pretty familiar with the idea that we as humans leave our signatures everywhere. I wanted to propose a different way of looking at it, where nature is this entity that can leave its fingerprint on us, especially in the ocean environment.

Something that J does really well is effectively communicate these very complicated ideas, and translate them, and make them accessible and meaningful to people. And it’s backed by empirical evidence, like J was saying earlier. I think we have enough empirical evidence to support the positive feelings that we’re getting. The human body is an incredibly sophisticated instrument, so finely tuned and ultra-calibrated that there’s no manmade equivalent. When we talk about technology and progress, we need to remember that the human body, our smell, our sight, our touch, our thoughts are incredibly advanced. And if they’re pointing us to want to be around water, I think we should really listen to that.

MICHAEL You’re finding microbes that are common in people that spend time in the ocean. I’m wondering if any of those microbes are pointing us to the ocean in the way that our gut flora can point us to different foods? Maybe the pull toward water that we feel in our souls is actually millions of bacteria driving us?

CLIFF I am interested in the way things communicate. Specifically, I like to look at the chemical language that organisms have. One of the easiest models to study is bacteria, because they use chemicals primarily to communicate between each other and to other species. There’s a lot of research in the microbiome world that describes certain types of gut microflora metabolizing food and releasing byproducts, which happen to function as neurotransmitters in our bodies. It’s a very methodical process in which the gut microbiome can alter mind states. The bacteria send chemical signals from the gut, which are absorbed into the bloodstream through the large intestine, pass through the blood-brain barrier, and attach to receptors in the brain. We’ve studied how these processes happen in controlled environments. Once you start getting further away from controllable environments like, say, in the ocean, that’s when a lot of our peers don’t necessarily like hearing what we’ve got to say.

If we look at something that comes from the ocean, and is going to affect the brain, [other scientists] just feel that there are too many variables and confounding factors. If you have someone who experiences the ocean’s effects firsthand, if you have anecdotal evidence, some biologists will try to attribute the effects to other factors, like, Oh, it’s probably because that person slept really well, or didn’t sleep well, or they ate a cheeseburger. If we can show that there’s a biological pathway for this process where ocean bacteria can potentially alter mind states, I think it would open up resources and technology. We can explore this field, instead of writing it off as a dead end. That’s maybe what J was talking about. Water just isn’t assigned enough value. But if someone said there’s a potential for gut microflora to cure Alzheimer’s or cure COVID, trillions of dollars would flow into it right now. But the value system, like J was saying, it’s not there.

J There’s definitely a headwind with the Blue Mind work. It really is free, in a lot of ways. If you’re fortunate enough to live in a place where the water quality is good and you have access, I mean, the gate’s open. There’s less interest if you can’t monetize or commodify something. Then there’s less about it in the research. The research is going to be poorly funded or not funded at all.

Anything that’s really good for a lot of people and really close to free—such as surfing, or swimming, or just sitting on the beach and looking—in our Western culture, is not going to get attention. This isn’t a conspiracy theory. It’s just a fact about grant making and the profit motive system. Conversations like this are part of the answer. Connect the dots rigorously. Tell the story well, and share it wildly.

Crepuscular rays beneath the surface. Karim Iliya, 2019, Maui

MICHAEL Are there any ideas that you’d like to close with?

CLIFF There is no me and the water, or me and the ocean. It’s inseparable. I think it’s important, not only for my sanity or my perspective on life; it’s for my identity. I come from Hawaii. Wai [water] is a critical part. That water is who I am as a person, as a human. And without water. I’m nothing. Not even human.

J I think the responsibility is on all of us, when we go to the water, to take somebody with us who doesn’t understand. There’s too much Red Mind in the world right now. A lot of people are hurting and burning out, moving into Gray Mind. I can relate to that deeply myself.

If you understand this conversation and are living it, spread it around. Surprise somebody and make them join you in the water, whatever that means, whatever it takes. Because you know the person I’m talking about. I don’t know them. I don’t know their name, but you do. Go knock on their door and tell them they’re getting in the water with you. Because they’re hurt. They’re hurting right now. And they need it. It’s easy to understand Blue Mind, to practice it and say, Yeah, I feel so much better. Yeah, it makes me a better person. But it makes us better people when we do it together.

Michael Donohoe is an Ohio-born bodysurfer, filmmaker, and naturalist who lives with his wife in Haiku, Hawaii.

Deep Waters Susanna L Cromwell

Living Water

The sun heats
the Earth’s surface.
Warmed air rises.
Cool air rushes to fill
the void.
This rushing air rakes
across the ocean
to create traveling waves.

When these waves pass
through shallow water,
the surface folds over itself,
churning heavy water
with weightless air
into stormy chaos.

Submerged in water,
the heart slows as
blood diverts
to the brain and core.

The body
focuses on survival
in an environment
for which it is not built.
The past and the future
no longer matter.

We take refuge in the
space beneath
the chaos of powerful
white water storms.

Below the turbulent surface,
lies peaceful clear water.

As we continue toward
an unknowable future,
we will strive to find
the calm beneath the chaos.

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